Today, kebaya dress is generally only used on certain days only, as in the traditional ceremonies for example. Baju kebaya here is a long-sleeved blouse worn out long-patterned cloth or gloves that cover the lower part of the body (from ankle to waist). Kebaya length varies, ranging from the size around the hips on up to sizes above the knee. Therefore, a Javanese woman knows two kinds of kebaya, kebaya short of measuring up to the hips and long kebaya measuring up to the knee.
Short Kebaya can be made from various kinds of cotton, either plain with one color such as red, white, yellow, green, blue and so forth as well as cotton or embroidered flowers. Currently, short kebaya can be made from silk material, fabric sunduri (Brocade), nylon, striated or synthetic ingredients. Meanwhile, long kebaya more use of velvet, brocade, silk or nylon embroidered flowers. Among women in Java, usually they are given additional kebaya dress material rectangular in. The front that serves as a connector.
Baju kebaya worn with cloth sinjang jarik / tapih where at the front of the left made wiron (folds) that wrapped around from left to right. To cover Stagen used ikat scarves rainbow of brightly colored dye. Scarves are worn they should be made of batik, striated cloth or fabric matching tie dye. In addition to striated fabric, gabardine fabric can also wear a subtle plaid patterned with a combination of the following colors: dark green with black, purple with black, medium blue with a black, dark yellow with black and red brick with black. Completeness of jewelry can be worn as simple a small corm with a matching necklace and pendant, ring, bracelet and a pair of sticks on a bun bun.
Baju kebaya is usually long use velvet, brocade, silk and embroidered nylon. Today, long kebaya dress is a dress for the wedding ceremony. And generally used by the bride Sunda, Bali and Madura. The length of this kebaya dress to the knee, can also use the additional material on the face but not curved neck (collar). In general, long kebaya made of black velvet or dark red, decorated with gold ribbon at the edge of the edge of clothes. Jarik batik cloth folded (wiron) still needed for this outfit, but usually without wearing scarves. Knot decorated with garlands of jasmine flowers and a gold pin prick. Meanwhile, the jewelry used is also simple, that is an almost semi-circular shaped comb that is used on the front center of the head. Baju kebaya worn long as usual ceremonial dress, the hair cosmetology without a string of jasmine flowers and the puncture pin.
On techniques and how to make kebaya dress is very simple. Cuts and Javanese kebaya, which is also used in South Sumatra, the coast of Borneo, Sumbawa Islands, and Timor in fact similar to the blouse. This outfit consists of two pieces of pieces, namely a front section and a longer piece of the back, and two sleeves. The model can be coupled with a rectangular piece of material that is used as a connector between two pieces of the face.
In the body kebaya cut in such a way so as not to require krup. This is intended to really make up the body at the waist and breasts and a bit wide in the hips. Meanwhile, fold down the rear and sides should be equal in width and headed to the front with a slightly tapered. Collar become one with the front of the kebaya. This arch should be wide enough so that it can be folded inward to vuring then folded back out to form a curved neck. All pieces are dapatdikerjakan with sewing machine or sewn by hand.
While the fashion among men, especially relatives of the palace is wearing clothes beskap flowers or other floral, on the head wearing headband (BlankOn), side cloth jarik, Stagen to tie the fabric side, a dagger and footwear (cemila). Clothing is called Jawi jangkep, namely the complete Java menswear with a dagger.
Although the art of fashion developed both within the palace, does not mean fashion in an environment of ordinary people there is nothing typical. Traditional clothing of ordinary people is widely used by farmers in the village. Clothing that is used is a black drawstring pants, long sleeves, big belts, headbands and when evening wear gloves. But at the time of the marriage ceremony, the bride usually their parents using cloth and belt jarik sindur. His clothes beskap or sikepan and on the head wear headband.
CLOTHING BASAHAN
One type of traditional dress of the most beautiful and most comprehensive in Indonesia are in the palace of Surakarta, Central Java. Therefore, each type of clothing that shows certain stages and who the usage. In a traditional wedding dress for example, a woman and man among the palace wearing some type of clothing, which is adjusted to stage the ceremony, namely Midodareni, consent, and after the ceremony Panggih Panggih. In Midodareni ceremony, the bride wore clothing with color sawitan kejawen. Clothing sawitan consists of long sleeved kebaya, Stagen and jarik with style batik cloth. While the bridegroom wear clothes way jangkep Jawi, which consisted of clothing atela, Udeng, sikepan, belt buckle, fabric jarik, a dagger and slippers.
When the answer to prayer ceremony, the bride's dress is worn shirt and fabric jarik kebaya, while the groom wore clothing basahan. Clothing basahan groom kuluk Matak here consists of plot, dodot wake tulak, Stagen, complete with a belt buckle and CINDE, white trousers, a dagger sheath ladrang and slippers.
Similarly, at the ceremony the bride and groom wore Panggih type of clothing that have been defined. The bride wore traditional clothes together, basahan. Clothing basahan is not wearing clothes, but consists of semekan or tank top, build dodot tulak or hem, or shawl sekar Sampur cinde abrit and cinde sekar jarik red cloth. Semekan or tank top is made of batik fabric with shades of the basic reasons why the color green or blue with decorative yellow or white gold. Here serves as a replacement tank top shirt and a complement to cover the breast. Dodot fabrics using pedestal-style batik long excuse about 4-5 meters, and is a staple in the fashion clothes basahan. Shawl cinde sekar abrit woven of red base color with black flower pattern and fabric jarik cinde sekar abrit gloyar made of fabric, decorated with a red base color is black and white flowers. How to wear this cloth like fabric jarik but no folds (wiron). Similar to the bride, pengatin men also wear traditional clothing basahan, a wake dodot tulak, consisting of light blue Matak kuluk, Stagen, belt buckle, epek, dodot wake tulak, pants cinde sekar abrit, kris sheath ladrang, under Karis, slippers jewelry necklace and stretching.
In this Panggih ceremony, usually the bride and groom wedding dress complete with a variety of jewelry basahan. Jewelry which is used by the groom is streching necklace, buckle / epek, rings, brooches and bloated. As for the bride, jewelry commonly used is cunduk mentul, teeter, tuft of hair, necklaces, bracelets, rings, brooches, earrings and buckle or epek.
Unlike the previous stages of the ceremony, the ceremony after Panggih, kanigaran bride wore clothing, which consists of kebaya outfit, fabric jarik, Stagen and slippers. Meanwhile, the groom used clothing principality, which consists of kuluk Kanigoro, Stagen, takwo clothes, belt buckle, fabric jarik, a dagger sheath ladrang and slippers.
For completeness, in a traditional wedding dress, the bride and groom both women and men are usually on the face makeup and a bun. The goal is to look more beautiful bride and groom angun and more dashing and handsome. For the groom, how meriasnya not so complicated and precise as the bride to be makeup on the face ranging from face, eyes, eyebrows, cheeks and lips.
Clothing both Java as well as everyday wear ceremonial dress very rich decoration that often has a symbolic meaning behind it. Types of decoration is known in the region of Surakarta and Yogyakarta is motivated tematema geometric fabric, the swastika (eg stars and the sun), animals (eg birds, snakes, buffalo, dragons), plants (lotus flower, jasmine) as well as natural and human. Geometric motifs include a patterned batik cloth curly, spiral, corkscrew curls and a double double. The motive of the lines cut the so-called ladder motif is a symbol of the ancestors is heading up the stairs to heaven. Even the motif of the best known by the people of Surakarta is tumpal triangular motif called untu stinky, which symbolizes fertility.
On special dresses for the marriage ceremony is also known motifs in batik, such as fabric and Truntum sindur used by parents bride. While cloth mukti Sido, Sido fabric is sublime and Sido Mulyo bride outfit.
The function of clothing, originally used as a tool to protect the body from cold or hot weather. Then the function of clothing becomes more diverse, such as to cover the genitalia, as a complementary element of the ceremony that bears a certain value, as well as a means of fulfilling the need for beauty.
In communities in Central Java, especially in Surakarta function of clothing is quite diverse, as in the royal garments have a practical function, aesthetic, religious, social and symbolic. As kebaya cloth practical function is to maintain the warmth and health agencies; aesthetic function, which decorate the body to look more beautiful and attractive; social function that is learning to maintain honor a woman that are not easily give up her femininity in a way tightly dressed and neat as possible, and wear Stagen as strong as possible so as not easily separated.
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